Caught up in the Wave

For a while I’ve been wanting to learn to surf ever since I went skiing in January. I went on this trip because it felt like the right time for me to find balance with my mind and body and reconnect with nature through trying something new. I’ve been working non-stop for the past few months, experiencing something new from every role that I do and it’s been a great learning experience. From time to time, you sometimes slip into auto-pilot and don’t remember to self-reflect from experiences. For me it’s important to do so in order to have your next plan of action and grow from it. However, recently I’ve done the opposite. I’ve somehow managed to overthink and over-analyse each step of action that I do in my life that I’ve somehow forgotten to enjoy the present moment. This is where my experience in surfing has taught me what I know now. 


During my three day trip in Praia de Faro, I joined Amar Surfing Academy and met instructors Victor and Mili. I learnt more than what I signed up for out in the sea with Victor with his buoyant spirit being larger than life. Although, I was a passionate and an eager beginner wanting to surf, he repetitively taught me the essential rules prior to surfing that apply to life. His words were : 
                                                                                “I want you to let go!”
                                                                                “You think too much!”
                                                                           “I want to see you smiling!”
                                                                                   “Don’t think - do!"
                                                                                         “Be free!”
                                                                                 “I want to see you fly!”

Whilst surfing, I was overthinking and tried to conquer each wave that came my way. I was running out of breath and quickly grew tiresome to a point where it was tricky getting on the board, let alone putting the techniques I learnt in place! That’s when Victor stepped in and told me to be patient. I then waited for the right opportunity, learning to allow each short-lived wave go past me and to wait for the right wave, so you can see it grow steadily from beyond. As I did, it was possible for me to regain my strength, prepare for the wave and put the technique in place. As I did, the next step for me was to then ride it out…


I’m one of those people who wants to run before they can walk, so whilst on the board, I wanted to direct my board in all sorts of directions. Instead, at this point I was meant to appreciate and enjoy the moment of being able to stand and surf the wave…even if it lasted for a few seconds. It took me a while to get used to the idea of not taking control as I was adamant in wanting to learn to surf and stand for longer. However, on the odd occasions, I gave up on the idea of wanting control and eventually learnt to just…let go. My instincts kicked in, I stood up on my own accord and took to the wave. I was surfing. I moved with the wave and felt free and happy in doing so!

I would spend the rest of my lessons trying to let go and go with the flow, but then the more I tried, the more I resisted. So in the end, the idea is to not even think so much into it. Only after my trip, I learnt the value of patience and waiting for the right opportunities, as well as finding joy in the moment, while learning something new. You might fall and crash a hundred times on your face, but at least do it with a smile, because it’s not long before you’re going to become really good at it anyway. So, from now on, I’ll continue to reflect (in moderation), do more and to enjoy being in the process of learning. It’s only then, you’ll be in the flow of life and do what feels right at the right moment in time. Like Victor said “surfing is like dancing” and “your body will know how to move”. So, if you overthink and try too hard to take control, you’ll miss the moment as well as your next step. So…feel. Also, on the topic what I’ve learnt, it’s not a good idea to surf for 3 consecutive days! Your body will feel it the next day and day after. It hurts.


So there you have it. My surfing experience in Faro with Victor and Mili at Amar Surfing Academy. I’m grateful for what I’ve learnt and would recommend going away to spend some alone time away from the world back at home. I still find it remarkable how you find lessons in life in the most unexpected experiences. Can you think of any situation which has offered you a new perspective?

Thank you all for reading my blog. Comment, like and share if you like this post.

Love y’all! Peace! x
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